Driving on the new inland route from Cairns to Cooktown is actually more pleasurable than the more adventurous Bloomfield Track that runs up the Coast. 340 klms of bitumen in 4 hours with a refreshment stop at The Palmer River Roadhouse is a comfortable drive.
About 25 klms from Cooktown we could see the ominous peaks of The Black Mountain National Park ahead of us. So many tales have been associated over the years about these strange granite formations that rise above us on both sides of the highway. Tales of so many population entering this area, never to return. These granite monoliths serve to hide mountainous deep caves that are the domain of millions of bats and their ever present predator, the giant python. A few photos taken from The lookout and we prolonged the last few klms into our final destination, Cooktown.
Soldier
We found The Cooktown Hotel in Charlotte road and entered the front door of this making ready to find a few locals sitting and chatting over their favourite beers. Behind the bar of this preeminent icon of yesteryear was Merrilee and Rick, our hosts to be, for the duration of our visit. Formalities exchanged we located into our chamber and decided to relax in the bar for a few hours after the journey from Cairns. An excellent meal in the Beer orchad later that evening saw us retire to our room for an early night.
Arriving a couple of days prior to The Discovery Festival afforded us the opportunity to drive colse to and get the feel of the place. So the next morning we set out for The lookout on Grassy Hill where, 238 years ago, Captain James Cook had stood to survey his navigational options whilst looking out over the dangerous reefs. A steep climb to the top and we arrived at the lighthouse. Magnificent views, unchanged, and revealing the difficulties that this great navigator faced in those early years. A sense of pride for a fellow countryman, that rarely surfaces in this author is an invitation to others to take a walk up Grassy Hill.
On leaving Grassy Hill we headed for The James Cook Museum to see artifacts from The Endeavour along with the original anchor and one of the ship’s cannon. European, Chinese and Aboriginal History also highlight in this building.
The Old Bank Museum is someone else place of interest that we visited to encounter displays of Cooktown and The Palmer River pioneering and gold rush days. At the entry to The Bank is a bronze bust of Captain James Cook.
The afternoon took us to The Botanical Gardens where Banks and Solander had walked all those years ago. These gardens are probably one of the oldest and historically essential Botanic Gardens in Queensland. Close by we visited The Cooktown Cemetery with it’s history of the old characters of the pioneering days.
We decided to retire to the hotel after a long day exploring this old town and relax with a few beers and take in some of The Cooktown Hotel’s atmosphere. The ‘Top Pub’ as it is colloquially known by the locals is so aptly named. If it is happening everywhere in Cooktown it is happening at The Cooktown Hotel. someone else superb evening meal, an early night, ready for the new day ahead.
Just before 8-00 am on Friday 6th June we headed out to someone else historical icon of the area. Half an hour later the author and Liz were sitting having a morning meal beer at the bar of the preeminent Lion’s Den. This making ready is a corrugated iron shed that has served the local miners for many a year. It has chamber on site that I can safely divulge as budget, and the lion guarding the font entry has one eye missing, due quite likely to the departure of an unhappy inebriated patron. The walls inside The Lions Den are thoroughly covered with memorabilia donated by visitors from the past.
Heading back towards Cooktown we decided to take a left on the Hopevale Road and visit the Endeavour Falls. Situated in the Endeavour Falls traveler Park this area can only be visited on gaining permission of the park proprietors as this area is incommunicable property. A short walk from the entry provided us with photographic opportunities and a short time later we were on our way back to Cooktown. The afternoon was spent relaxing, prior to the legal opportunity of The 2008 Discovery Festival being held on the lawns of The James Cook Museum.
Ceremonies over, we elected to return to the hotel for the evenings entertainment featuring ‘Anthillbillies’ a live band from Mount Molloy rather than going on to The Fishing Lease near The Warf for there live music from ‘Go Troppo’. From our balcony looking west across the Endeavour River we took in the sunset and enjoyed a great view of the band performing in the Beer Garden. After a great show we were joined on the balcony by the band who were staying in the hotel for two nights and conversation prolonged til the early hours of the morning.
Saturday morning arrived and everything was underway with activities along with Tai Chi in Endeavour Park and The Sassy Catz Can Can Dancers conducting workshops at The Shire Hall. Craft and yield Markets were open all day on both Sat. And Sun. As were the Tropical Carnivale commercial Rides and Sideshows for the kiddies. I decided to pop down to the Warf to catch the advent of the replica ship ‘Duyfken’ that was visiting for the weekend celebrations. Photos taken, I returned to the hotel to take up our prime position on the balcony to survey The Grand Parade that was to pass by and cease up with prizegiving at The Sovereign Resort Hotel.
The Parade commenced from The Bakery in Charlotte road led by The Town Crier in historical finery clanging his bell, followed by a Brass Band and numerous floats depicting the art and cultural aspects of life in the early days of Cooktown. Dancing girls and horses all added to this colourful display that wended it’s way along Charlotte Street. Our balcony position was ideal to watch the ‘Truck Pull’ face The Cooktown Hotel following the GrandParade. After teams of six spent the next hour and a half pulling their hearts out, the winners were declared and prizes presented to the victors.
Later that day we collected barramundi and chips from the ‘Takeaway Fish Shop’ at The Warf and retired to our balcony to survey someone else nights entertainment and bed.
Sunday arrived and we decided to try The Cooktown Cafe for breakfast. It was a overwhelming meal and we were delighted to see Noel Pearson, an Aboriginal Dignitary with his house on an adjacent table. The local crowds from the Cairns area began to arrive in numbers so we decided to make our way to Bicentennial Park to get a front position for The Re-enactment. By 10-30am, the crowds had all congregated at the park and were ready for the Main Event.
The 49th each year Cooktown Re-enactment began with Aboriginal Warriors entrancing stage left bedecked in tribal warpaint followed by their wives and children. Redcoats followed by Captain James Cook and his entourage entranced stage right. After several minor skirmishes the Aboriginals retreated into the interior to watch the goings on from a safer distance. Preparations for a camp set-up ensued. Timber conferrence commenced for the ships cook to put in order a meal. The Botanist Sir Joseph Banks began forays into the bush with his team to fetch specimens, and preparations were being made to erect a flagpole so as to hoist The Union Jack on this far away shore.The soldiers looked resplendant in their red and white uniforms, as did Captain James Cook and his officers in navy blue and white.
Finally the time arrived when the soldiers lined up, with muskets raised, in making ready to fire a volley of shots, as the Union Jack was hoisted up the flagpole to be animated by the Cooktown breeze.
The Re-enactment had reached it’s finale.
The Captain and his crew made their way to Endeavour Park for the firing of the Cooktown Cannon and to present a group photo opportunity with the cast.
The afternoon was taken up with Billy Cart races down Furneaux road to the satisfaction of the crowds, and The Tipsy Gypsies greeted the sunset in Bi-CenTennial Park with someone else carrying out of their unique style of Belly Dance. 7-00pm arrived and the fireworks display brought the final curtain down on a never to be forgotten visit to Cooktown.
Cooktown Visit For the 2008 Discovery Festival
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